Devotees at the Mahakaleshwar temple are greeted with a Sanskrit sloka, “It is rare for humans to be born in Bharat and even rarer is the opportunity to worship Shiva.” For many, the temple and the town in which it is located—Ujjain, about 200 kms west of Bhopal, the capital of Madhya Pradesh—is synonymous not only with spiritual emancipation but also with India’s ancient history.